4 Days in Cologne and Germany's Historic Rhineland

Heidelberg is buried deep in the forests of southwest Germany. Flanking both sides of the Neckar River, Heidelberg's red and white baroque old town looks like something from a book of folktales. On the hillside above the town, you'll see the looming, tumbledown remains of Heidelberg's Gothic-Renaissance castle, Heidelberger Schloss. The subject of strange local legends, Heidelberg Castle was once home to knights, a famous court jester, and even a witch. It is said the first person who pulls out an iron ring embedded in one of the great doors will be the castle's true owner. Surely on your visit, it's worth a try? Across the river, follow in the footsteps of scholars on a hiking trail known as The Philosophers’ Way. Heidelberg University is the oldest in Germany, and its leafy, temple-like campus contributes to the gentle, contemplative atmosphere of the town.  A poetic city with the dreamy feel of a watercolor painting, it's no wonder Heidelberg inspired writers like Mark Twain and Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. The city has even been recognized by UNESCO as a City of Literature. Especially on misty, grey days, Heidelberg has a way of sweeping you up in its romanticism.      

It feels as though everything in Brussels is tinted with gold. From the gilded rooftops of the old houses on the Grand Palace to the foil-wrapped bonbons piled in chocolatier windows, Brussels seems to sparkle and wink at you around every corner. Aside from the lustrous architecture and Trappist ales, this shiny city is probably still best known for its iconic street food options: salty, golden fries, and fluffy, honey-colored waffles.    While a major political center, home of the EU and NATO, don’t be fooled by Brussels stern ‘Eurocratic’ facade. Brussels revels in cheeky humor and mischief. So much so, Brussel’s beloved mascot, the ‘Manneken Pis’, is a statue of a small child urinating into a fountain. The city takes great pleasure in dressing this statue in festive-themed costumes. It’s no surprise that the artist Magritte, one of the great visual tricksters of the 20th century, called Brussels home. After a few days exploring the city, and taking in its sights and scenes, you’re sure to come away smiling.         

Compared to other German cities, Hamburg has a moody, nautical charisma all of its own. Despite being battered throughout history by floods, fires, and bombs, Hamburg has always held its head up high. Resilience is in the air in Hamburg, along with the briny smell of the North Sea. In recent years Hamburg has garnered a reputation for commerce and nightlife. Frequent travelers whisper that Hamburg is Germany’s ‘undiscovered’ city, the place to go for a little business and a lot of fun.  Known as Germany’s ‘gateway to the world’, ships dock in Hamburg as they haul cargo up and down the Elbe River. The city thrives as Germany’s primary seaport and has been a center of trade since the middle ages. Its affluence shows in the 19th-century brick warehouses, flourishing restaurant scene, and recently constructed Elbphilharmonie concert hall, which floats majestically in the harbor, part ship and part island. Hamburg is a city for those who like to live large - in a cultured, German kind of way. Attend a performance at the orchestra, cruise on a boat around the Außenalster Lake, or have a night on the Reeperbahn, the Vegas-like strip where the Beatles once performed. Whatever you do in the city, Hamburg will make you look twice and see Germany from a totally different point of view.       

As you travel through Western Germany, Cologne is a cheerful, fun city to stop for a night or two. Flanking both sides of the Rhine river, Cologne's delightful architectural pastiche reflects the breezy anything-goes attitude of its inhabitants. Like most German cities, Cologne took a hit during WWII, losing some of its old-world buildings and neighborhoods. However, thanks to the endurance of the Cologne Cathedral and iconic Hohenzollern Bridge, the city has kept its identity close to hand. Sometimes quite literally in the form of a glass of sparkling Kölsch local beer.  A visit to Cologne should always include paying a call to its eponymous Cathedral. A sensational, Gothic behemoth of a building and a UNESCO Heritage Site, Cologne Cathedral will get you right in the heart, humbling all who enter it. Just outside the cathedral, the Hohenzollern Bridge spans the Rhine, with three iron truss arches looping over the river like the bounces of a skimming stone. After wandering the riverside, if you're looking for some indulgence, Cologne's Chocolate Museum is an eternally popular choice. Maybe you'll be under the influence of the cocoa, but at the end of a day in Cologne, life can seem pretty sweet.       

A waterside metropolis with a low-key vibe, a visit to Amsterdam is as fun and freewheeling as a fixed-gear bicycle. This is the city where you can let it all go. The streets of Amsterdam chime with bicycle bells and the laughter of people making their way between bars. Yellow wheels of cheese line shop windows, and in springtime, market stalls are abundant with the famous Dutch tulips.      Younger than other cities in the Netherlands, Amsterdam sprang to life in the 17th century, when it became flush with trade from the Dutch colonies. From the gable tipped houses standing shoulder-to-shoulder on the canals to the Rembrandt paintings hanging on the walls of the Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam is strewn with relics from the Dutch Golden Age. Whether you rent a bicycle, float down a canal, or just sip on an amber-colored lager and watch the world go by, Amsterdam makes a lasting impression from start to finish.   

Dubbed ‘Mainhatten’ for its glass highrises, financial prowess, and proximity to the Main River, Frankfurt offers a fascinating glimpse into the ‘engine room’ of Europe’s economy with an unexpected twist. Among the glass and steel buildings, the old-worldly Römerberg square will give you a double-take. The square’s 15th-century half-timbered houses, old statues, and church spires contrast dramatically against the modern 21st-century skyscrapers beyond. If you visit at Christmas, the Römerberg is truly special, aglow with the light of the tallest Christmas tree in Germany. The square fills with stalls selling handicrafts, and the air is scented with hot apple wine, honey, and cinnamon.  Delve deeper into Frankfurt and you’ll find a substantial museum district, the Museumsufer (Museum Embankment). This area features a cluster of twelve museums on either side of Main River. This includes the Städel, home to Tischbein’s famous painting of renowned writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, one of Frankfurt’s most prestigious sons. The more time you spend in Frankfurt, the more you’ll discover a highly cultured city lurking beneath its glass facades. If you have the time, Frankfurt is certainly worth a second look.