Adriatic Dream: 10-Day Croatian Journey including Bosnia & Montenegro

See the beautiful courtyard which was once the center of the palace, and is now the heart of Split.

The Peristyle was the central courtyard of the palace complex and the crossing point of its main streets. The columns around the courtyard were pillaged from Egypt, though the officer in charge of the operation must have forgotten to get some extras as four of the columns are clearly different from the others. There's also a black granite Egyptian sphinx on one side dating from 1500 BC which originally flanked the entrance to Diocletian's mausoleum (other sphinxes around the palace were decapitated by Diocletian to allay his superstition that they posed a threat to his rule). If you sit on one of the red cushions scattered around the Peristyle you'll be approached by a waiter with a menu of very expensive drinks, but it may be worth it just to sit and lap up the history and watch people go by. At the southern end of the Peristyle, steps lead up to a cone-shaped, roofless chamber which once served as the palace vestibule. Visitors would wait here before being summoned before the ex-emperor into his private apartments.

Enter this ancient gateway to discover palace cellars used as film sets for Game of Thrones.

While today about 200 feet (60m) from the water, the Bronze Gate originally sat directly on the sea, allowing boats to pull directly up to the palace. As you enter the gate you will find a mass of souvenir and arts & crafts stalls, but just inside the entrance on either side are the substructures, or cellars of the palace. After the palace fell into disrepair, the cellars were used as rubbish pits. Families occupying the apartments above would simply create holes in the floor and voila, they had an instant trash dump with a seemingly unending supply of space. Of course centuries of trash did eventually them fill up and they were only rediscovered in 1956; the excavations continue to this very day. While entrance to the cellar is not free, it provides an excellent idea of what the palace must originally have looked like, as they're an exact mirror image of the imperial living quarters above. Game of Thrones fans will also be happy to learn that the cellar was used as a filming set, including as Daenerys Targaryen's grand Meereen throne room.

See the beautiful courtyard which was once the center of the palace, and is now the heart of Split.

The Peristyle was the central courtyard of the palace complex and the crossing point of its main streets. The columns around the courtyard were pillaged from Egypt, though the officer in charge of the operation must have forgotten to get some extras as four of the columns are clearly different from the others. There's also a black granite Egyptian sphinx on one side dating from 1500 BC which originally flanked the entrance to Diocletian's mausoleum (other sphinxes around the palace were decapitated by Diocletian to allay his superstition that they posed a threat to his rule). If you sit on one of the red cushions scattered around the Peristyle you'll be approached by a waiter with a menu of very expensive drinks, but it may be worth it just to sit and lap up the history and watch people go by. At the southern end of the Peristyle, steps lead up to a cone-shaped, roofless chamber which once served as the palace vestibule. Visitors would wait here before being summoned before the ex-emperor into his private apartments.

Enter this ancient gateway to discover palace cellars used as film sets for Game of Thrones.

While today about 200 feet (60m) from the water, the Bronze Gate originally sat directly on the sea, allowing boats to pull directly up to the palace. As you enter the gate you will find a mass of souvenir and arts & crafts stalls, but just inside the entrance on either side are the substructures, or cellars of the palace. After the palace fell into disrepair, the cellars were used as rubbish pits. Families occupying the apartments above would simply create holes in the floor and voila, they had an instant trash dump with a seemingly unending supply of space. Of course centuries of trash did eventually them fill up and they were only rediscovered in 1956; the excavations continue to this very day. While entrance to the cellar is not free, it provides an excellent idea of what the palace must originally have looked like, as they're an exact mirror image of the imperial living quarters above. Game of Thrones fans will also be happy to learn that the cellar was used as a filming set, including as Daenerys Targaryen's grand Meereen throne room.

Stroll the atmospheric narrow streets of this small town nestled at the end of a clear blue bay.

Stari Grad is more laid back and family-oriented than Hvar Town but is becoming more popular with younger crowds and the jet-set as time goes by. Its streets are lined by stone houses decorated with bright window boxes, and there are plenty of small squares to explore that suddenly open up at the end of shoulder-rubbing alleyways. The fertile plain stretching south and west of Stari Grad is one of the few places in Europe where the ancient Greek system of field division has been preserved almost untouched. With olive groves and vineyards divided by a grid of dry stone walls and country lanes, it is easily explored on foot or by bike. A highlight within the town is the summer house and walled garden of the 16th-century poet and aristocrat Petar Hektorović called the Tvrdalj. This simple stone structure purpose-built for quiet contemplation and as a refuge for the locals in time of the attack is built around a central cloister with a turquoise pond packed with mullet. Almost immediately adjacent to the Tvrdalj is the Biankini Palace, an impressively restored Renaissance building that now houses the Town Museum

Hop over to these rocky islands to swim and snorkel in their picturesque little coves and lagoons.

If weather permits, Hvar can be a splendid place for swimming as the sea conditions are truly exceptional, with crystal clear water. If you are hoping for soft sand beaches though, you will be disappointed. Beaches range from "pebbly" to "rocky ledge". A great option is to catch a water taxi (about 50 Kuna per person roundtrip) from the town of Hvar to the forested Pakleni Island, where the best beaches are to be found. The contorted, crooked shorelines of the islands create numerous little coves and lagoons that are nice spots for swimming and relaxing. Sveti Klement is the largest of the islands and hence has the best facilities, but there are restaurants, bars, snack stands, and toilets located near most of the beaches. Snorkeling is also possible at the Pakleni Islands, although generally there are no reefs, as is the case along most of the Croatian coastline. However, visibility is amazing and there are plenty of interesting rock formations. The best option if you are serious about snorkeling is to go with an organized boat tour.

Check out where war galleys were once repaired on Hvar's main square.

There's plenty to see in Hvar Town beginning at the main square, Trg svetog Stjepana (St Stephen Square) where you'll find the 17th century Venetian arsenal in which war galleys were once hauled for repair. The upper story was adapted in 1612 to house the town theatre, one of the oldest Baroque playhouses in Europe. St Stephen's Cathedral at the eastern end of the square is a 16th-century building with a fragile looking four-story campanile. Some of the artwork inside might be worth your time popping in to see. The Bishop's treasury next door contains a small but fine selection of religious.

Climb to this stone fortress above the town of Hvar for the perfect photo.

Resting atop of the hill with breathtaking views of Hvar Town and the nearby Pakleni Islands is the Citadel, built by the Venetians in the 1550s but with the help of Spanish engineers, hence it is another name: the Spanish Fortress. It is the perfect spot for a photo of yourself standing on the turrets and overlooking the town and harbor. During the season it is open to visitors for a 40 Kuna entry fee. To reach the citadel just walk up the stairs located next to the Loggia, which is the colonnaded white building located just in front of the port. Once you reach the gardens above the town, then follow a zig-zagging path through the gardens. When you reach a gate in the garden, go through it, instead of taking the other path which is helpfully spray-painted with the word "stop". This will take you to the entrance of the citadel.

Take a swim in one of Croatia's most famous and beautiful beaches.

Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape) is a beautiful tongue of white pebble beach jutting into the sea, and is one of the most popular swimming and sunbathing spots in Croatia. Its summer breezes also make it a favorite among wind surfers. Huge crowds flock to it in the summer months, so it is not ideal for those looking for an isolated spot to themselves. You can easily reach the beach from the town of Bol, as it is only a 20 minute walk along a tree-lined promenade. In high season you'll find all manner of diversions here, including food options, bicycles for hire, scooters and quad bikes, boat rentals, windsurfing, water taxis to more isolated coves and beaches, and snorkeling and scuba diving courses.

Explore the picturesque town of Bol and take a quick walk to the Dominican monastery.

Bol's setting is indeed quite beautiful, hugging the coastal flanks of Brac's tallest mountain, but it attracts huge crowds in the summer months that flock to the nearby beautiful beach of Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). The town of Bol itself is thankfully free of high rise package hotels and somehow manages to retain some modesty and charm around its attractive harbor. Take time to pop up to the Dominican monastery which is dramatically located high on an outcrop just east of Bol's center - the assiduously maintained monastery gardens overlooking the sea are worth the walk up.

Visit this seaside hamlet recently rated as one of the top ten most picturesque villages in all of Europe.

The stone-quarrying village of Pučišća is hidden in the western arm of a long Y-shaped inlet and is assembled around a rough-hewn pair of medieval defensive towers and a gnarled church belfry. The harbor is clean enough to swim in and there are pleasant rocky beaches on the northwestern side of the inlet. There's a stone-carving school in the village and white-stone souvenirs are the stock-in-trade here.

Discover the oldest continually inhabited settlement on the island.

Located on the interior of the island, Škrip has an entirely different atmosphere from the ritzy beach towns. Indeed, it's a sleepy nest of stone houses with heavy stone roof-tiles and feels a bit lost in time - in a good way. You'll also find 16th-century castle ruins and the island's museum at its eastern end. The museum contains a well-preserved Roman relief of Hercules and miscellaneous 19th-century agricultural tools. There's a Roman mausoleum outside that allegedly contains the wife or daughter of Diocletian.  At the top of the village you'll find an ancient church and graveyard from where you'll enjoy a wonderful view of the countryside.

Monument

A monument in the heart of Old Town Dubrovnik. The column, erected in 1418, features the armored knight Orlando who according to the legend, helped the people of old Dubrovnik defeat invaders in the middle ages, therefore, helping Dubrovnik remain a free trade city-state. 

14th-century Gothic-Renaissance palace

14th-century Gothic-Renaissance palace featuring a museum

Monument

A monument in the heart of Old Town Dubrovnik. The column, erected in 1418, features the armored knight Orlando who according to the legend, helped the people of old Dubrovnik defeat invaders in the middle ages, therefore, helping Dubrovnik remain a free trade city-state. 

14th-century Gothic-Renaissance palace

14th-century Gothic-Renaissance palace featuring a museum

Climb to the top of the island to visit the ruins of a 19th century fortress.

After the French took control of Dubrovnik during the Napoleonic wars, they seized the strategically located island from the Benedictine monastery and began building this fortress on the highest point of the island. It was not completed until 1835, by which point Dubrovnik was under Austrian rule. In addition to checking out the fort, you'll enjoy a great view.

Take a dip in this completely calm saltwater swimming hole.

Linked to the sea by underground channels in the karst, this small but deep saltwater lagoon is definitely a romantic place for a swim. It is named after the Dead Sea, because it is similarly easy to swim in.

Explore the ruins of a Benedictine monastery which was the rightful owner of the island.

The island was actually the possession of this former monastery for several centuries until it was sold by the Republic of Regusa to make debt payments to Napoleon in the late 18th century. When the monks were unfairly evicted, legend says that they cursed "anyone who should claim Lokrum for his own pleasure!” Sure enough, all the noblemen involved in the eviction met untimely and gruesome deaths. The island was bought in 1859 by Maximilian von Hapsburg, Archduke of Austria. He transformed the former Benedictine monastery into his summer palace, laid out gardens and wrote bad verse about the island's beauty. The monks' curse followed Maximilian as well, as he met his end in front of a firing squad in Mexico in 1867. Later it was handed over to the Emperor Franz Josef's son Rudolf, who wintered here to soothe his bronchial problems. He also met a famously sinister end; in a murder-suicide with his underage lover. While its owners have met sinister fates, those visitors who come only for a day's enjoyment find it a place of simple delights. 

Climb to the top of the island to visit the ruins of a 19th century fortress.

After the French took control of Dubrovnik during the Napoleonic wars, they seized the strategically located island from the Benedictine monastery and began building this fortress on the highest point of the island. It was not completed until 1835, by which point Dubrovnik was under Austrian rule. In addition to checking out the fort, you'll enjoy a great view.

Explore Lopud's fortified monastery and take a hike to an abandoned fortress.

Lopud used to act as a retreat for nobles from the city of Dubrovnik, and a large part of the Republic's fleet used to be based here; the ruined palaces of shipowners still occupy crumbling corners of the island's only village (also called Lopud). Like all coastal island ports in Dalmatia, Lopud hugs a wide curving bay that boasts a long, sometimes crowded and reasonably sandy beach. Its most prominent monument is the fortified monastery not far from the quay where most catamarans and boats dock. In the other direction along the waterfront, steps lead up to the ruined palace and private chapel of Miho Pracat, a 16th-century merchant, and shipowner whose bust adorns the Rector's Palace in Dubrovnik. Not far from that is the Đorđić-Mayner Park, which is one of the nicest in a region, with trees from around the world grouped beneath soaring pines, and roses and cacti and other ornamental plants spread out underneath. There are some very pleasant hiking paths that start at the back of the village and lead up onto the high ground at the center of the island, one of which (look for signs indicating 'Kaštio' or 'Trvdava') climbs towards the Ragusan fortress, which is about a 40min walk away. It's a total ruin these days, but the view from its highly atmospheric ramparts is magnificent, with stark coastal mountains to the east, the green, cone-shaped hills of Šipan and Pelješac ringed by deep blue water to the north. You'll also stumble upon numerous photogenic ancient church ruins along the way.

Wander or cycle through this landscape of craggy hills, olive orchards, orange groves, and small vineyards.

The largest of the populated Elafiti, Šipan is a sleepy island full of craggy hills, but with the largest population in the island group it also has a slightly more diversified economy, hence the proliferation of olive orchards, orange groves and small vineyards strung out along the fertile plain in the hinterland. The main port of call is Suđurađ, another bay-straddling clump of stone houses, but this time overlooked by a pair of imposing stone towers built to guard the walled summer villa of a wealthy 16th century Dubrovnik shipowner. Parts of the villa have been restored, but unfortunately, it's not open to the public. Running around the side of the villa (veer left behind it), the village's main alleyway ascends towards the blockhouse-shaped Church of the Holy Spirit, a fortified structure built to serve as a refuge for the locals in the event of a pirate attack. Ask at any of the cafes or souvenir shops in Suđurađ if you'd like to rent a bicycle for a few hours to see as much of the island as possible before your return sailing.

Hop over to the closest of the islands and enjoy its pleasant sand beach.

Only 30 minutes from Dubrovnik, Koločep is the smallest of inhabited Elafiti Islands with a population of fewer than 150. The main settlement of Donje Čelo is a pleasant cluster of stone houses with an excellent curving sandy beach. Inland there are several paths that lead you into dense. fragrant pine and deciduous forest that covers the southern part of the island.

Explore Lopud's fortified monastery and take a hike to an abandoned fortress.

Lopud used to act as a retreat for nobles from the city of Dubrovnik, and a large part of the Republic's fleet used to be based here; the ruined palaces of shipowners still occupy crumbling corners of the island's only village (also called Lopud). Like all coastal island ports in Dalmatia, Lopud hugs a wide curving bay that boasts a long, sometimes crowded and reasonably sandy beach. Its most prominent monument is the fortified monastery not far from the quay where most catamarans and boats dock. In the other direction along the waterfront, steps lead up to the ruined palace and private chapel of Miho Pracat, a 16th-century merchant, and shipowner whose bust adorns the Rector's Palace in Dubrovnik. Not far from that is the Đorđić-Mayner Park, which is one of the nicest in a region, with trees from around the world grouped beneath soaring pines, and roses and cacti and other ornamental plants spread out underneath. There are some very pleasant hiking paths that start at the back of the village and lead up onto the high ground at the center of the island, one of which (look for signs indicating 'Kaštio' or 'Trvdava') climbs towards the Ragusan fortress, which is about a 40min walk away. It's a total ruin these days, but the view from its highly atmospheric ramparts is magnificent, with stark coastal mountains to the east, the green, cone-shaped hills of Šipan and Pelješac ringed by deep blue water to the north. You'll also stumble upon numerous photogenic ancient church ruins along the way.